The hydrogen exchange kinetics of 68 individual amide protons in the native state of hen lysozyme have been measured at pH 7.5 and 30 degrees C by 2D NMR methods. These constitute the most protected subset of amides, with exchange half lives some 10(5)-10(7) times longer than anticipated from studies of small model peptides. The observed distribution of rates under these conditions can be rationalized to a large extent in terms of the hydrogen bonding of individual amides and their burial from bulk solvent. Exchange rates have also been measured in a reversibly denatured state of lysozyme; this was made possible under very mild conditions, pH 2.0 35 degrees C, by lowering the stability of the native state through selective cleavage of the Cys-6-Cys-127 disulfide cross-link (CM6-127 lysozyme). In this state the exchange rates for the majority of amides approach, within a factor of 5, the values anticipated from small model peptides. For a few amides, however, there is evidence for significant retardation (up to nearly 20-fold) relative to the predicted rates. The pattern of protection observed under these conditions does not reflect the behavior of the protein under strongly native conditions, suggesting that regions of native-like structure do not persist significantly in the denatured state of CM6-127 lysozyme. The pattern of exchange rates from the native protein at high temperature, pH 3.8 69 degrees C, resembles that of the acid-denatured state, suggesting that under these conditions the exchange kinetics are dominated by transient global unfolding. The rates of folding and unfolding under these conditions were determined independently by magnetization transfer NMR methods, enabling the intrinsic exchange rates from the denatured state to be deduced on the basis of this model, under conditions where the predominant equilibrium species is the native state. Again, in the case of most amides these rates showed only limited deviation from those predicted by a simple random coil model. This reinforces the view that these denatured states of lysozyme have little persistent residual order and contrasts with the behavior found for compact partially folded states of proteins, including an intermediate detected transiently during the refolding of hen lysozyme.