The natural constituents of historical textile dyes. 2004

Ester S B Ferreira, and Alison N Hulme, and Hamish McNab, and Anita Quye
School of Chemistry, The University of Edinburgh, West Mains Road, Edinburgh, UK EH9 3JJ.

The sources and structures of dyes used to colour Western historical textiles are described in this tutorial review. Most blue and purple colours were derived from indigo--obtained either from woad or from the indigo plant--though some other sources (e.g. shellfish and lichens) were used. Reds were often anthraquinone derivatives obtained from plants or insects. Yellows were almost always flavonoid derivatives obtained from a variety of plant species. Most other colours were produced by over-dyeing--e.g. greens were obtained by over-dyeing a blue with a yellow dye. Direct analysis of dyes isolated from artefacts allows comparison with the historical record.

UI MeSH Term Description Entries
D007203 Indigo Carmine Indolesulfonic acid used as a dye in renal function testing for the detection of nitrates and chlorates, and in the testing of milk. Indigotindisulfonate Sodium,Soluble Indigo Blue,(delta-2,2'-biindole)-3,3'-dione,2-(1,3-Dihydro-3-oxo-5-sulpho-2H-indol-2-ylidene)-3- oxoindoline-5-sulphonic acid,D&C Blue NO. 6,FD&C Blue No. 2,Indigo,Indigo Blue,Indigo Disulfonate,Indigotin,Indigotindisulfonate,Indigotindisulfonic Acid,Carmine, Indigo,Indigo Blue, Soluble
D007211 Indoles Benzopyrroles with the nitrogen at the number one carbon adjacent to the benzyl portion, in contrast to ISOINDOLES which have the nitrogen away from the six-membered ring.
D010944 Plants Multicellular, eukaryotic life forms of kingdom Plantae. Plants acquired chloroplasts by direct endosymbiosis of CYANOBACTERIA. They are characterized by a mainly photosynthetic mode of nutrition; essentially unlimited growth at localized regions of cell divisions (MERISTEMS); cellulose within cells providing rigidity; the absence of organs of locomotion; absence of nervous and sensory systems; and an alternation of haploid and diploid generations. It is a non-taxonomical term most often referring to LAND PLANTS. In broad sense it includes RHODOPHYTA and GLAUCOPHYTA along with VIRIDIPLANTAE. Plant
D004396 Coloring Agents Chemicals and substances that impart color including soluble dyes and insoluble pigments. They are used in INKS; PAINTS; and as INDICATORS AND REAGENTS. Coloring Agent,Dye,Dyes,Organic Pigment,Stain,Stains,Tissue Stain,Tissue Stains,Organic Pigments,Pigments, Inorganic,Agent, Coloring,Inorganic Pigments,Pigment, Organic,Pigments, Organic,Stain, Tissue,Stains, Tissue
D000818 Animals Unicellular or multicellular, heterotrophic organisms, that have sensation and the power of voluntary movement. Under the older five kingdom paradigm, Animalia was one of the kingdoms. Under the modern three domain model, Animalia represents one of the many groups in the domain EUKARYOTA. Animal,Metazoa,Animalia
D001685 Biological Factors Endogenously synthesized compounds that influence biological processes not otherwise classified under ENZYMES; HORMONES or HORMONE ANTAGONISTS. Biologic Factors,Biological Factor,Factor, Biologic,Factor, Biological,Factors, Biological,Biologic Factor,Factors, Biologic
D013784 Textiles Filament or fiber, or the materials generated from them by weaving, embroidery, knitting, crocheting, tufting, or felting such as yarn, thread, cording, rope, netting, lace, or sheets of cloth or fabric. Textile
D015394 Molecular Structure The location of the atoms, groups or ions relative to one another in a molecule, as well as the number, type and location of covalent bonds. Structure, Molecular,Molecular Structures,Structures, Molecular

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