A new oxidant for hair coloring. 2009

Jennifer Marsh, and R Marc Dahlgren, and Colin Clarke, and Jonathan Stonehouse, and Chris Nunn
Procter & Gamble, Miami Valley Innovation Center, 11810 East Miami River Road, Cincinnati, OH 45069, USA.

Coloring hair using a level 3 permanent colorant involves two processes, lightening the underlying melanin and information of the colored chromophores inside the hair. In a typical in-market products the oxidant used to achieve these changes is hydrogen peroxide buffered at pH 10 with an alkalizer such as ammonium hydroxide. A new oxidant has been developed based on the combination of ammonium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide and glycine at pH 9 that can match the lightening and color performance of the current oxidant. It has the advantage that both the carbonate and hydrogen peroxide concentrations can be changed to alter the lightening performance making it a more flexible oxidant. This allows the capability to lighten the hair in a shorter time, or with lower hydrogen peroxide levels. This paper discusses the key oxidizing species that are present in both systems and the mechanisms of melanin lightening. In addition, the lightening performance will be assessed as a function of time, pH, hydrogen peroxide concentration and carbonate concentration. The importance of glycine to the oxidant is also described along with a proposal for its mechanism of action. It has been demonstrated that the addition of glycine can control the undesired formation of carbonate radicals that can be generated from the oxidant. The control of these radicals enables the oxidant to deliver excellent lightening with no negatives in fiber damage bs. conventional oxidants.

UI MeSH Term Description Entries
D009682 Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy Spectroscopic method of measuring the magnetic moment of elementary particles such as atomic nuclei, protons or electrons. It is employed in clinical applications such as NMR Tomography (MAGNETIC RESONANCE IMAGING). In Vivo NMR Spectroscopy,MR Spectroscopy,Magnetic Resonance,NMR Spectroscopy,NMR Spectroscopy, In Vivo,Nuclear Magnetic Resonance,Spectroscopy, Magnetic Resonance,Spectroscopy, NMR,Spectroscopy, Nuclear Magnetic Resonance,Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopies,Magnetic Resonance, Nuclear,NMR Spectroscopies,Resonance Spectroscopy, Magnetic,Resonance, Magnetic,Resonance, Nuclear Magnetic,Spectroscopies, NMR,Spectroscopy, MR
D002254 Carbonates Salts or ions of the theoretical carbonic acid, containing the radical CO2(3-). Carbonates are readily decomposed by acids. The carbonates of the alkali metals are water-soluble; all others are insoluble. (From Grant & Hackh's Chemical Dictionary, 5th ed) Carbonate
D006197 Hair A filament-like structure consisting of a shaft which projects to the surface of the SKIN from a root which is softer than the shaft and lodges in the cavity of a HAIR FOLLICLE. It is found on most surfaces of the body. Fetal Hair,Hair, Fetal,Lanugo,Fetal Hairs,Hairs,Hairs, Fetal
D006202 Hair Dyes Dyes used as cosmetics to change hair color either permanently or temporarily. Coloring Agents, Hair,Dyes, Hair,Hair Colorants,Hair Dye,Agents, Hair Coloring,Colorants, Hair,Dye, Hair,Hair Coloring Agents
D006801 Humans Members of the species Homo sapiens. Homo sapiens,Man (Taxonomy),Human,Man, Modern,Modern Man
D006861 Hydrogen Peroxide A strong oxidizing agent used in aqueous solution as a ripening agent, bleach, and topical anti-infective. It is relatively unstable and solutions deteriorate over time unless stabilized by the addition of acetanilide or similar organic materials. Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2),Hydroperoxide,Oxydol,Perhydrol,Superoxol,Peroxide, Hydrogen
D016877 Oxidants Electron-accepting molecules in chemical reactions in which electrons are transferred from one molecule to another (OXIDATION-REDUCTION). Oxidant,Oxidizing Agent,Oxidizing Agents,Agent, Oxidizing,Agents, Oxidizing

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