A gas chromatography-mass spectrometric method to determine skin-whitening agents in cosmetic products. 2010

Alberto Chisvert, and Judit Sisternes, and Angel Balaguer, and Amparo Salvador
Departamento de Química Analítica, Facultad de Química, Universidad de Valencia, Doctor Moliner Street, 50, 46100 Burjassot, Valencia, Spain. alberto.chisvert@uv.es

An analytical method is proposed here to determine three allowed (kojic acid, azelaic acid and arbutin) and two forbidden (resorcinol and hydroquinone) skin-whitening agents in cosmetics. The method is based on gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometric detection, which allows the two prohibited target compounds to be identified unequivocally by means of their mass spectra acquired in full-scan mode at the retention time of these compounds. Owing to their low volatility, target analytes are derivatized using N,O-bis-(trimethylsilyl)trifluoroacetamide (BSTFA) (containing 1% trimethylchlorosylane) prior to injection into the chromatographic system. The accuracy and precision of the proposed method were evaluated by analysing a laboratory-made skin-whitening cosmetic sample containing known amounts of the five target compounds. The method can be easily applied by the manufacturers in the quality control of their own products, and also by safety authorities to prevent fraudulent operations and thus look after consumers' health. The proposed method was successfully applied to the analysis of nine commercial skin-whitening cosmetic products, showing that fraud was committed in four of the analyzed samples.

UI MeSH Term Description Entries
D008401 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry A microanalytical technique combining mass spectrometry and gas chromatography for the qualitative as well as quantitative determinations of compounds. Chromatography, Gas-Liquid-Mass Spectrometry,Chromatography, Gas-Mass Spectrometry,GCMS,Spectrometry, Mass-Gas Chromatography,Spectrum Analysis, Mass-Gas Chromatography,Gas-Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry,Mass Spectrometry-Gas Chromatography,Chromatography, Gas Liquid Mass Spectrometry,Chromatography, Gas Mass Spectrometry,Chromatography, Mass Spectrometry-Gas,Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry, Gas,Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry, Gas-Liquid,Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry,Gas Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometry,Mass Spectrometry Gas Chromatography,Spectrometries, Mass-Gas Chromatography,Spectrometry, Gas Chromatography-Mass,Spectrometry, Gas-Liquid Chromatography-Mass,Spectrometry, Mass Gas Chromatography,Spectrometry-Gas Chromatography, Mass,Spectrum Analysis, Mass Gas Chromatography
D010858 Pigmentation Coloration or discoloration of a part by a pigment. Pigmentations
D012118 Resorcinols A water-soluble crystalline benzene-1,3-diol (resorcinol) and its derivatives. m-Dihydroxybenzenes,meta-Dihydroxybenzenes,m Dihydroxybenzenes,meta Dihydroxybenzenes
D003358 Cosmetics Substances intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions. Included in this definition are skin creams, lotions, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. (U.S. Food & Drug Administration Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition Office of Cosmetics Fact Sheet (web page) Feb 1995) Personal Care Products,Care Product, Personal,Care Products, Personal,Personal Care Product,Product, Personal Care,Products, Personal Care
D003879 Dermatologic Agents Drugs used to treat or prevent skin disorders or for the routine care of skin. Agent, Dermatologic,Agent, Dermatological,Agents, Dermatologic,Dermatologic Agent,Dermatological Agents,Agents, Dermatological,Dermatological Agent
D012867 Skin The outer covering of the body that protects it from the environment. It is composed of the DERMIS and the EPIDERMIS.
D013696 Temperature The property of objects that determines the direction of heat flow when they are placed in direct thermal contact. The temperature is the energy of microscopic motions (vibrational and translational) of the particles of atoms. Temperatures
D013997 Time Factors Elements of limited time intervals, contributing to particular results or situations. Time Series,Factor, Time,Time Factor
D014297 Trimethylsilyl Compounds Organic silicon derivatives used to characterize hydroxysteroids, nucleosides, and related compounds. Trimethylsilyl esters of amino acids are used in peptide synthesis. Compounds, Trimethylsilyl

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