Quantitative analysis of fragrance allergens in various matrixes of cosmetics by liquid-liquid extraction and GC-MS. 2021

Chia-Hui Lu, and Ming-Chih Fang, and Yu-Zi Chen, and Shou-Chieh Huang, and Der-Yuan Wang
Food and Drug Administration, Ministry of Health and Welfare, Executive Yuan, 161-2 Kunyang St., Nangang Dist., Taipei 11561, Taiwan.

Fragrances are the most common chemicals in cosmetics to which people expose every day. However, the unwanted allergic reactions such as contact dermatitis caused by direct contact with fragrances may happen. In Directive 2003/15/EC of the EU, cosmetic product containing one or more of 26 fragrance allergens must be declared on the package label. In addition, commission regulation (EU) 2017/1410 amending Annexes II and III of cosmetic regulation 1223/2009 restricted fragrance chemical of methyl eugenol, and prohibited Lyral, atranol, chloroatranol to be used in cosmetic. In this study, an efficient and sensitive GC-MS method for 3 banned fragrances, 26 fragrance allergens along with restricted methyl eugenol in cosmetics was established. Sample preparation by liquid-liquid extraction was developed by testing various solvent systems to simplify traditional complex extraction methodologies. Validation of the proposed method showed good linearities in a wide concentration ranges of 0.1-10 μg/mL. The intra-day and inter-day recoveries were between 84.4 and 119% with coefficient of variation (CV) below 13.5%. The limit of quantifications (LOQs) of 27 fragrance allergens were in the range of 2-20 μg/g. A surveillance study consisted with 82 cosmetics was conducted, among which 31 products claimed fragrance-free. The results showed some fragrance-free claims were false. In the other hand, there were seven cosmetics labeled containing Lyral, but only four were detected. The top fragrance allergens detected in the samples were linalool, limonene, and geraniol. The analysis of fragrance allergens in cosmetics indicated that potential contact allergy related to these products should be considered, even though some fragrance allergens were from natural extracts, such as oak moss absolute.

UI MeSH Term Description Entries
D008401 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry A microanalytical technique combining mass spectrometry and gas chromatography for the qualitative as well as quantitative determinations of compounds. Chromatography, Gas-Liquid-Mass Spectrometry,Chromatography, Gas-Mass Spectrometry,GCMS,Spectrometry, Mass-Gas Chromatography,Spectrum Analysis, Mass-Gas Chromatography,Gas-Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry,Mass Spectrometry-Gas Chromatography,Chromatography, Gas Liquid Mass Spectrometry,Chromatography, Gas Mass Spectrometry,Chromatography, Mass Spectrometry-Gas,Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry, Gas,Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry, Gas-Liquid,Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry,Gas Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometry,Mass Spectrometry Gas Chromatography,Spectrometries, Mass-Gas Chromatography,Spectrometry, Gas Chromatography-Mass,Spectrometry, Gas-Liquid Chromatography-Mass,Spectrometry, Mass Gas Chromatography,Spectrometry-Gas Chromatography, Mass,Spectrum Analysis, Mass Gas Chromatography
D009812 Odorants The volatile portions of chemical substances perceptible by the sense of smell. Odors,Aroma,Fragrance,Scents,Aromas,Fragrances,Odor,Odorant,Scent
D010476 Perfume A substance, extract, or preparation for diffusing or imparting an agreeable or attractive smell, especially a fluid containing fragrant natural oils extracted from flowers, woods, etc., or similar synthetic oils. (Random House Unabridged Dictionary, 2d ed)
D003358 Cosmetics Substances intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions. Included in this definition are skin creams, lotions, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. (U.S. Food & Drug Administration Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition Office of Cosmetics Fact Sheet (web page) Feb 1995) Personal Care Products,Care Product, Personal,Care Products, Personal,Personal Care Product,Product, Personal Care,Products, Personal Care
D006801 Humans Members of the species Homo sapiens. Homo sapiens,Man (Taxonomy),Human,Man, Modern,Modern Man
D000485 Allergens Antigen-type substances that produce immediate hypersensitivity (HYPERSENSITIVITY, IMMEDIATE). Allergen
D059625 Liquid-Liquid Extraction The removal of a soluble component from a liquid mixture by contact with a second liquid, immiscible with the carrier liquid, in which the component is preferentially soluble. (McGraw-Hill Dictionary of Scientific and Technical Terms, 6th ed) Liquid Phase Extraction,Extraction, Liquid Phase,Extraction, Liquid-Liquid,Extractions, Liquid Phase,Extractions, Liquid-Liquid,Liquid Liquid Extraction,Liquid Phase Extractions,Liquid-Liquid Extractions,Phase Extraction, Liquid,Phase Extractions, Liquid

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