Biophysical properties of dry atopic and normal skin with special reference to effects of skin care products. 1995

M Lodén
Department of Dermatology, University Hospital, Uppsala, Sweden.

During recent years several highly developed non-invasive methods for evaluation of skin physiology and pathology have been introduced. Against this background, the present studies were undertaken with the primary aim of assessing the effects of various skin care products on some properties of the skin. Skin topography was measured by profilometry on skin replicas, friction with a newly developed friction instrument, capacitance with a Corneometer, and barrier function both with an Evaporimeter to assess transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and by application of an irritant followed by measurement of the resulting irritative reaction. Initially some of the techniques were used to further characterize the differences between dry atopic skin and normal skin. Dry skin exhibits increased values of roughness parameters and a reduced number of topographical peaks. TEWL is increased, indicating impaired barrier function. The friction and capacitance are lower and correlate significantly to each other, whereas TEWL does not appear to relate to either of these parameters. The use of a scrub cream removes the outermost part of the stratum corneum, resulting in a smoother skin. Application of moisturizers modifies the frictional response of the skin. The friction instrument gave results comparable to those of panelists trained in sensory evaluation. The study suggests that measurement of skin friction can be used to predict the degree of liking of moisturizers. Furthermore, moisturizers increase the skin hydration. They provide water directly to the skin from their water phase. Skin hydration also increases with increased degree of occlusion, as measured as a decrease in TEWL. Moisturizers may also alter the diffusional resistance of the stratum corneum and reduce the skin susceptibility to the surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Lipids in moisturizers may influence already developed SLS-induced irritation. A significantly lower degree of irritation was found in areas treated with canola oil and its sterol-enriched fraction than in an area treated with water. These findings emphasize that skin care products do not only form an inert, epicutaneous layer, but that they may penetrate and influence the structure and function of the skin.

UI MeSH Term Description Entries
D007509 Irritants Drugs that act locally on cutaneous or mucosal surfaces to produce inflammation; those that cause redness due to hyperemia are rubefacients; those that raise blisters are vesicants and those that penetrate sebaceous glands and cause abscesses are pustulants; tear gases and mustard gases are also irritants. Counterirritant,Counterirritants,Irritant,Pustulant,Pustulants,Rubefacient,Rubefacients,Vesicant,Vesicants
D008055 Lipids A generic term for fats and lipoids, the alcohol-ether-soluble constituents of protoplasm, which are insoluble in water. They comprise the fats, fatty oils, essential oils, waxes, phospholipids, glycolipids, sulfolipids, aminolipids, chromolipids (lipochromes), and fatty acids. (Grant & Hackh's Chemical Dictionary, 5th ed) Lipid
D008297 Male Males
D008875 Middle Aged An adult aged 45 - 64 years. Middle Age
D010539 Permeability Property of membranes and other structures to permit passage of light, heat, gases, liquids, metabolites, and mineral ions. Permeabilities
D003876 Dermatitis, Atopic A chronic inflammatory genetically determined disease of the skin marked by increased ability to form reagin (IgE), with increased susceptibility to allergic rhinitis and asthma, and hereditary disposition to a lowered threshold for pruritus. It is manifested by lichenification, excoriation, and crusting, mainly on the flexural surfaces of the elbow and knee. In infants it is known as infantile eczema. Eczema, Atopic,Eczema, Infantile,Neurodermatitis, Atopic,Neurodermatitis, Disseminated,Atopic Dermatitis,Atopic Eczema,Atopic Neurodermatitis,Disseminated Neurodermatitis,Infantile Eczema
D003879 Dermatologic Agents Drugs used to treat or prevent skin disorders or for the routine care of skin. Agent, Dermatologic,Agent, Dermatological,Agents, Dermatologic,Dermatologic Agent,Dermatological Agents,Agents, Dermatological,Dermatological Agent
D004058 Diffusion The tendency of a gas or solute to pass from a point of higher pressure or concentration to a point of lower pressure or concentration and to distribute itself throughout the available space. Diffusion, especially FACILITATED DIFFUSION, is a major mechanism of BIOLOGICAL TRANSPORT. Diffusions
D004643 Emollients Oleagenous substances used topically to soothe, soften or protect skin or mucous membranes. They are used also as vehicles for other dermatologic agents. Emollient
D005260 Female Females

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